Misen replaced my broken knife

Broken Misen Knife

My broken Misen knife.

My original Misen Chef’s Knife, which I had purchased way back in 2017, recently suffered a fatal accident. I wasn’t there when it happened, but you can see from the photo that the edge showed no sign of abuse and the damage was in the body of the blade. Might this be covered by Misen’s “Lifetime Warranty Against Defects“? The answer was yes!

I contacted Misen support and sent them the above picture of the broken knife. They said they couldn’t find my purchase in their records and asked if I had ordered from a different email which it turned out I had. Walla! Misen apologized for the inconvenience and a replacement knife was in my hands no more than a week later. This is good to know if, like Kenji Lopez-Alt, you turn your back on an old friend after a single negative experience.

Caveat Emptor: if you take our advice and order from Misen’s Amazon store for faster delivery and possibly a lower price, the lifetime warranty may not apply. So if you are concerned about possibly needing the guarantee, with a heavy heart and a lighter, commission-less wallet, we would advise you to order from Misen directly.

Replacement Misen Knife

Walla! A replacement knife was in my hands a few days later free of charge.

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Recipe: Garlic Mashed Potatoes

Garlic Mashed Potatoes

Garlic Mashed Potatoes with a nice chuckeye steak.

You don’t really need a recipe for garlic mashed potatoes, but last night’s rendition was the best I’ve had and I happen to have kept track of the proportions so I’m sharing it. Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients:
1 lb yellow or white potatoes (I avoid russets which are too crumbly)
2 T unsalted butter
½ c sour cream
2 t minced garlic
Salt for the cooking water, plus more salt (probably 1 t) for seasoning
Couple of grinds of black pepper

Method: peel the potatoes and cut bigger ones in half or quarters while keeping small ones (2 inches in diameter or less) whole. Boil in salted water until tender when pierced with a fork, but not falling apart. Drain. Mix with other ingredients, mash with a potato masher, adjust seasoning and serve with a nice chuckeye steak or similar.

P.S. My helpful SEO tool tells me I’ve listed a recipe for garlic mashed potatoes once before, as an accompaniment to Pork Chops with Vinegar Peppers. That recipe had buttermilk, this one sour cream.

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Making poke with Trader Joe’s ahi tuna

Trader Joe Poke

Poke made with Trader Joe’s ahi tuna.

We bought and accidentally defrosted a brick of Trader Joe’s ahi tuna. What to do? Make some poke! Don’t try this at home (unless you want to) because the fish, which you will eat raw, needs to be absolutely fresh or at least flash-frozen. But we had been in control of our product from freezer to home which gave us confidence to proceed.

A generic internet recipe told us we should chop the tuna into small pieces and mix with soy sauce, sesame oil and green onions. Not good! The salty soy overpowered the other ingredients. Having a second 8 oz tuna steak we cubed it and tried again, with a marinade that included more or less:

2 T toasted sesame oil
1 green onion, sliced into rings including some of the green part
Half a shallot, chopped, about 2 T, standing in for Maui sweet onions
½ t pink Hawaiian sea salt (if we didn’t have it would have used Kosher)
1 T Trader Joe’s Furikake

The result? Onolicious but, more important, approximating the good poke we’ve had on our trips to Oahu. Sesame oil is viscous and clings to the tuna pieces in a way that makes for a cohesive product you can easily eat with chopsticks and combine with rice or other mix-ins. Next time (and there will be a next time, as soon as we get back to TJ) we might experiment with a bit of ginger or a sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds (though those are incorporated in the TJ’s furikake) or we might enjoy it just the way it is.

The internet wants you to use very fresh tuna-grade ahi for poke and eat it right away, but that doesn’t make sense to us. Isn’t poke a way to use up fish that is a bit past its prime? The excellent Onolicious Hawaii blog has thoughts as well as links to places on Oahu which sell her favorite poke varieties. She likes to pick up several 8 oz containers (so marinated, not fresh) and serve them with hot rice. She casts shade on the mainland trend of mixing poke with a lot of ingredients to create a healthy bowl with the fish taking a supporting role. We agree, though we are thinking of a couple spoonfuls of edamame (out of the shell) as an accompaniment next time.

Sushi Stack

Sushi Stack by caloriesandcocktails on TikTok.

Onolicious Hawaii would certainly scoff at the TikTok trend of sushi stacks (poke stacks with alliteration added) in which a can opened at both ends (or a special mold, if you want to waste money) is used to create a mini tower with a layer of rice, a layer of poke and a top layer like avocado. We’re okay with this; it is essentially a stateside poke bowl with more dramatic presentation. But we insist that the poke itself take center stage.

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Recipe: Instant Pot Hot and Sour Soup

Instant Pot Hot and Sour Soup

Instant Pot Hot and Sour Soup.

Yes, you can make Hot and Sour Soup in the Instant Pot that’s a pretty good facsimile of your favorite takeout Chinese. We started with this recipe from Jamie + Jacky and were initially disappointed but then we added lots more white pepper (hot) and white distilled vinegar (sour) and that did the trick. Note that our recipe does include a number of ingredients you’ll need to get from your Asian market or Amazon; once you have them on hand the recipe comes together quickly. Makes about 8 servings of hot & sour soup.

Ingredients:
A generous handful each of: dried shiitake mushrooms, dried black fungus/tree ears and dried lily buds
1 lb pork shoulder meat (we used country style spare ribs)
1 T neutral oil
Salt and pepper
1 T Shaoxing wine or dry sherry
4 c chicken stock
2 t grated ginger
1 T regular soy sauce
1 T dark soy sauce
4 T distilled white vinegar* plus more as desired
1 t Kosher salt
1 T ground white pepper, plus more as desired
1 t toasted sesame oil
½ brick tofu (any firmness)
1 egg
¼ c water
2 T cornstarch

Method: soak the mushrooms, fungus and lily buds in three separate bowls with 2 c hot water for each until soft, about 45 minutes. While they are soaking, set Instant Pot to Sauté, add 1 T oil and brown the pork shoulder on all sides. Reserve. Still on the Sauté setting, deglaze the pot with wine/sherry and soaking water from shiitake mushrooms. (You can discard the other two waters.) Turn off the Instant Pot.

Return the pork to the pot with chicken stock, ginger, regular and dark soy sauces, white vinegar, salt, white pepper and sesame oil. Cut the shiitakes into thin slices, discarding the hard core; chop tree ears coarsely; cut off ends of lily buds and slice in half at the center; add all to the pot. Seal and pressure cook on High for 18 minutes followed by natural release for 15 minutes.

Fish out pork pieces and, when they are cool enough to  handle, shred the meat, discard bones if any, and return shredded pork to the pot. Add tofu, chopped into small cubes if firm otherwise just crumbled in. Use Sauté setting to bring soup to the boil. Beat egg and swirl into the soup, mixing with a spoon so the tendrils of egg are well distributed. Mix 3 T cornstarch with ¼ c cold water till smooth and add to soup; stir until the soup is thickened.

Now, TASTE FOR SEASONING. We predict you will add a good amount of extra white pepper and vinegar to get the taste you want: pungent, aromatic, with a deep note of flavor from the pork. Serve hot.

*Jamie and Jacky use Chinkiang black vinegar, which we love, but white distilled vinegar creates the flavor profile we’re looking for in a Chinese takeout hot and sour soup.

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Recipe: Everyday Pate

Everyday Pate

Everyday Paté.

Everyday Paté is inspired by a red sauce place in South Glens Falls, NY called Massie’s. Their Italian entrees came with a pasta side, a cup of minestrone and a “relish plate” including celery and carrot sticks, mild pickled cherry peppers and a small tub of paté. Times have changed and the relish plate is gone but this recipe captures the essence of that paté… nothing fancy but a flavor pleasure spread on crackers or maybe some crusty Italian bread. Makes maybe 1 ½ lb total, plenty to share as I did at a New Years Eve potluck.

Ingredients:
1 medium onion, peeled and quartered
1 tart apple, peeled, cored and quartered
3 T unsalted butter
1 lb chicken livers, picked through to remove connective tissue (those yellow bits)
5 T unsalted butter
¼ c brandy
2 T heavy cream
1 ½ t Kosher salt
1 t lemon juice
¼ t ground black pepper
2 T or more additional butter which has been softened and separated into small pieces*

Method: pulse the onion and apple in a food processor (which is mandatory for this recipe) until chopped medium-fine. Sauté with 3 T butter at medium heat until the onion and apples are just starting to brown, about 7 minutes. Return the apples and onion to the food processor; add 5 T butter and chicken livers to the sauté pan. Sauté until chicken livers are browned all over but still pink inside, about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add brandy to pan and flambée, shaking pan so the flaming liquid is evenly distributed and continuing to shake and turn pan till the flames go out.

Massies Pate

A rare 2014 Yelp photo of Massie’s actual pate, served on a crostini it looks like.

Cool the livers somewhat (so the cream won’t curdle) and return to food processor along with cream, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Process till sooth; adding softened butter in a couple of  batches*.

Transfer the pate to a small loaf plan which has been lined with plastic wrap; smooth surface with a spatula. Chill until firm, at least 3 hours, and serve with crackers or crusty bread.

*The original recipe, from this source, called for an additional 8 T butter which is far too much.

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Holiday Prime Rib

Holiday Prime Rib

Holiday Prime Rib 2023.

A standing rib roast is getting awful expensive, but I was able to find a 4 bone (about 9 pounds) large end USDA Choice roast for under $65 at a local supermarket for holiday prime rib 2023. Now all that was left was to prep and serve the royal beast. (Got some inspiration from this NYT article [free link for nonsubscribers] which laments the fall in popularity of prime rib before concluding it’s as popular as ever.)

Decades ago I had a job at Victoria Station where I was responsible for steaks, managing the rib roasts and assembling a specialty shrimp dish. There is a thread somewhere online reminiscing about the “low and slow” cooking technique at Victoria Station but that’s not what I remember. We had a convection oven and cranked it up to 500 or maybe 550 degrees. Rib roasts were brought out of the cooler in the afternoon and we’d let them come  to room temperature before rubbing with salt and subjecting them to intense heat for I’m guessing 50 minutes and not much more. The steak grill was to the left of the vertical ovens so I’d frequently burn my arm flipping steaks and I still have a few scars to this day.

Prime Rib Leftovers

Cold prime rib for next day leftovers. Doneness from just rare next to the bone to crispy but not dry at the edges… exactly what I was aiming for.

I followed the same technique for my 2023 holiday prime rib, with a few tweaks. Pre-salted the night before for a dry brine, then rubbed in cracked pepper on all surfaces as the oven was warming up. (I had actually planned to use the reverse sear method which is trending and possibly fine, but I discovered an hour before planned serving time that the slow cooking phase takes up to 4 hours, d’oh!) At 50 minutes the temperature was only 106 degrees and 118 is recommended for a roast that will be rare to medium rare after resting, so I gave it 10 more minutes. The result was superb.

I had forgotten till I cut into the roast that we had frequently undercooked our prime ribs at Victoria Station when demand outran supply. We had a pass with some sturdy heat lamps, so an undercooked (i.e. bloody) slice would spend a few minutes there before going out. And it didn’t hurt that the restaurant had yellow lighting that made every cut of beef look perfect.

I was moderately interested in the jus described in the NYT Cooking recipe, a gravy made with a little of the pan juices stiffened with beef stock and flour. But in the end I served as is traditional for me (and was standard practice at Victoria Station) with sour cream mixed with a healthy portion of Sau-Sea horseradish. Delicious, and leftover sandwiches the next day were even better. UPDATE: with a little prodding from Chuckeye Dave, I recalled that we actually did have a container of au jus made from a concentrate at Victoria Station. It was kept warm on a corner of the steak grill and we would spoon a little onto each serving of prime rib as it went out.

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Making the PBC sandwich from Heinz

Heinz PBC sandwich

PBC Sandwich from Heinz.

The PBC sandwich from Heinz does not incorporate peanut butter and cheese as you might expect (though we approve of that combination). It’s peanut butter, bacon and chili sauce from a recipe that appeared in the 1933 Heinz Salad Cookbook. We ran across it and had to give it a try because we love peanut butter.

Heinz PBC sandwich recipe

Here’s the 1933 recipe for PBC Sandwich from Heinz.

Method is pretty straightforward with a few quirks. Take 2 slices of bread and toast on one side only. (We did this by inserting two slices together in the wider bagel slot of our upright toaster.) Spread untoasted side of one slice with peanut butter, then slather on some Heinz Chili Sauce. Now add strips of bacon, trimmed to fit the bread, and broil at a medium setting till the bacon crisps at the edges and sizzles.

PBC sandwich with gherkins

Our gherkins strategy!

Thus far the recipe is as described in an episode of Sandwiches of History, a Youtube channel we will probably revisit at some point. The host tries it as an open face sandwich and proclaims it okay, then adds some hot sauce and pepper and a second piece of bread and likes it better. What is never discussed is the addition of “sliced gherkins” in the original recipe which gave us pause. Heinz doesn’t directly tell us to put the pickles on the sandwich but rather to “serve with”. But who slices up gherkins? These sweet pickles are pretty small to begin with and I expect 100% of snackers eat them whole. Maybe gherkins were the size of cantaloupes in 1933?

We ended up slicing the gherkins lengthwise and adding them to the sandwich, then closing up the assembly and slicing to serve. It was fine, nothing not to like. Next time we’d probably broil both pieces of bread with the bacon on the plain side to capture more of the bacon grease. And the gherkins add mostly a sweet/sour element which could be obtained more economically with pickle relish. Also, full disclosure, we did not use Heinz Chili Sauce which is just very expensive ketchup with some sweet heat added but rather a house brand which served our purposes just fine. And Heinz no longer makes peanut butter so we substituted the magnificent Trader Joe’s product.

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Misen products are now discounted on Amazon!

Misen Chef Knives

The two top knives are Misen, now available for 25% off at Amazon via this link.

We were delighted to discover the Misen store in Amazon.com. (And you bet that’s an affiliate link.) You can order one of their knives or a non-stick skillet set, to name our two favorite categories, get a nice discount in many cases, and enjoy free shipping if you have Prime (or accept a trial subscription). I realize this news is a little late for holiday shopping, so please bookmark the page for future reference. And maybe they will have an after-Christmas sale.

What Misen products to buy? We are huge fans of the chef’s knife and non-stick skillets and have multiples in daily use. Serious Eats apparently tested a defective knife recently which knocked Misen off Kenji’s “nice” list (thanks to Chuckeye Dave for sharing the link) but you can get any knife resharpened for $14 (covers shipping both ways) via this link. We’ve tried the knife sharpening service and the results are excellent.

In the past we’ve ordered directly from Misen which is not a bad experience, but we ended up adding on items that we didn’t really need in order to reach a minimum ordering threshold (we’re looking at you, Mr. cast iron dutch oven). If  you’re used to shopping with Amazon Prime, you know it’s so much easier plus you can enjoy free returns if necessary. And you’ll be supporting Burnt My Fingers with a small affiliate commission that doesn’t add to the purchase price. It’s a good deal, so please check out the Misen store on Amazon.

UPDATE: according to a couple of Amazon reviewers, Misen’s “Lifetime Warranty Against Defects” (which we recently used successfully) does NOT apply to products purchased on Amazon. So if you are buying a knife you might be better off purchasing directly from Misen.  Non stick skillets, on the other hand, are guaranteed to wear out so I’d be fine ordering from Amazon if I can get a lower price and faster delivery.

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Walla! Kenji Lopez-Alt exposed.

Misen Chef Knife

Misen Chef’s Knife, from Kenji’s review on Serious Eats. The knife is now available at a nice discount on Amazon.

A kind reader corrected our use of “walla” to convey “there you have it” when executing a culinary tour de force. The correct spelling/usage is “voila” and of course we know that. We use walla in solidarity with all the home cooks who employ this phonetic rendition on Facebook etc. to convey their excitement about a dish. Also, did you know that “walla” is actually a technical term in motion picture sound to describe background crowd noise? You didn’t? Now who’s the charlatan in this scenario?*

Walla is the perfect term to introduce this article, which exposes the dark/mischievous side of culinary icon/gadfly Kenji Lopez-Alt. Called “The 18 Knives Kenji’s Collected Over the Years”, it describes each knife with its origin story. Some may say 18 is way too many: you have a favorite chef’s knife, paring knife, a flexible boning knife, a bread knife… so what are all these other knives? Well, with a couple exceptions they are products you can buy at a link in the article. Kenji is delivering clickbait, in other words.

We are in general big Kenji fans and have followed him since his early days on Serious Eats. His writing combines the scientific precision of Harold McGee with the passion of an enthusiastic home cook. We love how he breaks a recipe down into steps, each of which can be performed in different ways with varying results he is happy to share before announcing the best way at the end. But he doesn’t always use his superpowers for good, as when he took us in a wild misdirection during our search for the secret recipe for Halal Guys white sauce. [Update: the Reddit entry has been edited and is not as egregious as it used to be.]

And our question about this article is… what happened to the Misen Chef’s knife, which Kenji called “the holy grail of inexpensive chef’s knives. Incredible quality and design, high-end materials, perfect balance, and a razor-sharp edge”? That review (or an earlier version, since this one is dated June 2023) caused us to try Misen knives after a satisfactory experience with their skillets. And we’re glad we did and now have 2 Misen chef’s knives and a paring knife in daily use while our heavier Victorinox sits idle in the block. (By the way, Misen products like the chef’s knife and skillets are now available on Amazon [affiliate link!] at a substantial discount plus you don’t pay for shipping if you’re a Prime member.)

I don’t want to think that Misen was omitted from the more recent roundup because they didn’t pay up for a link. But, walla, the evidence is there.

*Bonus points if you recognize this quote from A Bug’s Life, one of the greatest movies ever made. And why was there not a Bug’s Life 2?

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The magic of membrillo

Membrillo

Membrillo magic? More like meh.

We ordered a cheese platter from Whole Foods for our on-the-road Thanksgiving reunion. It came with a nice selection of cheeses and crackers and a little tin of membrillo, or quince paste. Nobody showed much interest in the membrillo so I tossed it into my suitcase when departing. It’s been on my desk ever since and I occasionally take a little nibble.

And I have to say, what’s the big deal about membrillo?

You would think it’s god’s own nectar based on accolades from its fans. Murray’s Cheese calls it “candy for grownups” and praises its “punchy sweetness”. Forever Cheese extols the “magic of membrillo” and quivers with excitement over the “mystical world of the quince and the much-heralded cheese accompaniment it becomes.” And here’s a guy who loves membrillo so much for its “highly aromatic, floral flavor” that he has planted a quince tree so he can make his own.

Membrillo Tin

This is the tin of membrillo included in our Whole Foods cheese assortment.

To me, meh. I’d much rather have figs or dates, fresh or dried, on my cheese plate. My guess is that the “magic of membrillo” is its high pectin content; ancients discovered they could mix sugar (or, more likely, honey) with the bitter fruit juice and walla, it would set up into a semi-solid consistency with a dramatic pink/orange hue.

Can we think of anything else with a high pectin content that sets up into a gel? That’s right, cranberries. What if the Fertile Crescent had run through New England instead of the middle east? Then we’d all be praising the genius of the bright red accompaniment to sharp cheeses. In fact I have a can of cranberry sauce left over from Thanksgiving and I’m going to try that next time I serve up some stinky cheese and crackers!

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