All I want for Christmas is my Instant Pot

Am I the last one to know about the Instant Pot? If the answer is no, it’s YOU then there is still time to get/ask for one of these beauties for Christmas/Hanukkah. Just click the Amazon affiliate image above.

Instant Pot is an electric pressure cooker with a bunch of smart electronics and a heating element on the bottom of the internal pot. That means you can sauté up some short ribs with seasoned flour, pour in some wine and maybe a splash of fish sauce, and be enjoying meltingly tender meat in about half an hour. You also make savory, juicy Chinese-style salt chicken (though it won’t be as crisp as the birds hanging in the shop window) and a host of other goodies by following the international links on this deceptively sparse recipe index.

In fact, it seems that the biggest market for Instant Pot may be China; half the recipes in the included cookbook are in Chinese without, unfortunately, any available translations. (The very large Instant Pot community suggests that you should cut and paste the individual recipes into a translation utility like Google Translate. The measurements went awry when I did this so I’m waiting for some kind soul to simply post their results.) So if you like to mess with Chinese and other Asian preps, this is your pot. Pho and Taiwanese beef stew are definitely on my list to try in the new year. And there are a bunch of sticky rice preps that seem promising.

How much you ask? Depends on the whim of Father Amazon. On super sale days like Cyber Monday, the price can drop into the sixties. Regular seems to be around $120. This morning it’s $99 but that may change by the time you get there. But even at regular price, its not a huge investment for all the fun you/they are going to have. Go for it.

P.S. Be sure you get the 7-in-1 Instant Pot, not the lesser 6-in-1 model. The only obvious difference is that the 7th function is the ability to make yoghurt, but there are more variables under the hood. Don’t limit your creativity to save a buck or two.

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My holiday cookie bake

At this time of year, I traditionally do a holiday cookie bake of goods to send to faraway friends and family. It sometimes includes a loaf of fruit and nut bread, one year had a stollen (not successful) but almost always includes three cookie items which are different enough that everybody will like at least one of them.

Fennel Pollen Shortbreads

Fennel Pollen Shortbreads

Fennel Pollen Shortbreads. These are delicate and delicious with the funky licorice taste balancing the unctuous butter. If you don’t have access to fennel pollen I would experiment with anise extract since fennel seeds would interfere with the desired smooth texture. Recipe here. Note that these guys are rather delicate so wrap carefully if shipping.

Chocolate Biscotti with Chipotle and Hazelnuts

Dark Chocolate Biscotti with Chipotle and Hazelnuts



Dark Chocolate Biscotti with Chipotle Chili. Chocolate and chili seem to be a thing nowadays, and this is a good example of why the two contrasting flavors work so well together. Do go to the trouble to roast and husk fresh hazelnuts; in fact, make some extras because they’re delicious and can be used in other bakes. Recipe here.



Christina Tosi's Corn Cookies

Christina Tosi’s Corn Cookies

Christina Tosi’s Corn Cookies. Chef Tosi wants you to order freeze dried corn kernels from Amazon to give these a rich corn-y taste but subbing in more finely ground corn flour (NOT cornmeal) will probably work as long as the flour is very fresh. They are very similar to peanut butter cookies in their texture and flavor profile… in fact, one of my more discerning tasters thought that’s what they were. Recipe here.

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Sussing out Saratoga Restaurant Week 2016

Squash Soup, Meatloaf Sandwich

$10 lunch special for Saratoga Restaurant Week at Salt and Char

We’re at the midpoint of Saratoga Restaurant Week 2016, and I’ve made an earnest effort to review the meals that are on offer at $5 or $10 for lunch, $10, $20 or $30 for dinner. Some restauranteurs complain about restaurant weeks because they feel they draw the bargain hunters who are unlikely to return. But it’s also an opportunity to be creative and show what you can do at a price point. Diners who might not have tried you previously get a good taste of what to expect and may come back at full price.

That’s what is happening at Salt and Char, an extremely expensive steak house that opened last year on Broadway. The $10 lunch special is a meatloaf sandwich on focaccia, accompanied by a bowl of cardamon-scented butternut squash soup. Brilliant idea to grind the scraps from those expensive cuts (the cheapest steak on the regular menu is $68) and serve with a rich tomato jam. I didn’t like the soup as much and in any case it didn’t go well with the meatloaf: heavy complemented by heavy. A salad (maybe the impressive iceberg wedge I saw on other tables) would have been better. That told me something about the new crew in the kitchen, the original world-renowned chef (Gary Kunz) having stepped back from daily operations. But my wife had the $24 prix fixe which delivered a bowl of French onion soup under a puff of cheese accented pastry, followed by a nicely sautéed chicken breast. The hanger steak is available for a $8 upcharge, allowing diners to sample a signature dish at less than half the usual price. (That’s an ongoing lunch special, not just for restaurant week.) Now I know what the restaurant is like (plusses and minuses to the decor, all minus to the blaring soundtrack which is unfortunately way too common in local places) and what the kitchen can do. I’ll return for that hanger steak.

At the other end of the spectrum are any number of establishments which are serving burgers, sandwiches or other entrées that come close to the price point on the regular menu, and tossing in a cookie or a beverage. That’s not trying hard at all, but better than some folks that can’t be troubled to post their menus: we’ve got something for Restaurant Week, but you’ll have to come in to see what it is. If they don’t bother to plan ahead, one expects that they will not try very hard when you get there.

Tonight I’m headed for the Barrelhouse, a place in the “Arts District” which I tried and didn’t like when it first opened. A $20 special with that lettuce wedge and a mixed grill has caught my eye. With a modest price cut and some creativity, they’ve got me back for a second chance. That’s what Saratoga Restaurant Week is all about, or should be.

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How to know when a recipe is going to suck

Bang Bang Turkey

Bang Bang Turkey, after tossing

The New York Times failed me. I looked at their collection of leftover Thanksgiving turkey recipes and plucked out Bang Bang Turkey by Nigella Lawson. I followed it to the letter except for making a couple of strategic substitutions in the aromatic herbs. The result was beyond mediocre—a waste of 1 ½ cups of shredded turkey breast (luckily, I had divided the recipe in half). But when you take a closer look at the recipe, there are several red flags.

  1. The recipe isn’t dated. Only when I clicked this link did I discover it was originally published in 2002. That’s significant because tastes change with the times, and availability of ingredients also changes. I have some vintage cookbooks I love to work from, but I always know what I’m getting into.

  2. The recipe contains suspect ingredients: shredded lettuce, “Chinese chili-bean sauce” and superfine sugar. It was shredded iceberg lettuce back in 2002. The NYT doubtless eliminated the specificity because no self-respecting foodie eats iceberg lettuce any more, but the result is just confusing. How do I shred micro greens? As to “Chinese chili-bean sauce” there are any number of sauces at my Asian market that contain both chilis and beans, so one suspects Nigella Lawson was simply referring to whatever was in her pantry which isn’t helpful. And superfine sugar? How about regular sugar, which most folks have on hand, dissolved in the vinegar as you start to bring the recipe together?

  3. The recipe has appeared in other versions over the years, which suggests Nigella was simply winging it. Googling uncovers recipes (usually for Bang-Bang Chicken, not turkey) without the sesame oil, heated on the stove, and subbing watercress for the lettuce. All may have merit, but don’t present the current recipe as canon.

  4. The recipe is needlessly fussy. Back in 2002 Mu Shu Pork was a thing, and the table assembly aspect of that dish may have informed Bang Bang Turkey/Chicken. You are supposed to spread out the shredded lettuce on a large plate, drizzle some sauce on, mix the turkey separately with more sauce, then finally garnish with scallion and cucumber. And, pass more sauce for diners to add to their liking. But the sauce is viscous so you’re going to immediately mix up the ingredients to distribute it before serving. Now you have a tossed salad, and there’s nothing wrong with that. But let’s skip the needless foreplay.

Of these #2 is probably the most egregious and also the easiest to spot. I should have known better. Any time the ingredient list is either vague or esoteric, ask yourself if the author had a hidden agenda or was simply lazy.

P.S. If you feel like making the recipe in spite of my outrage I would advise more peanut butter, more heat and the substitution of Napa cabbage for lettuce.

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The tyranny of leftovers

Annoying leftover pickled sausage

Annoying leftover pickled sausage

Tired of turkey? Sick of stuffing? I’m writing this on the Tuesday after Thanksgiving and, if you’re still struggling with leftovers, I hereby give you permission to a/pick the remaining meat off the carcass and freeze in a zip-loc bag; b/make a stock with said carcass; c/throw everything else in the trash. (I love stuffing and have frozen it in years past, but it does not reanimate very well.)

Now for the hard part. If your refrigerator is like mine, it’s full of esoteric condiments and ingredients purchased for a specific use that will sit there hogging shelf space until we deal with them. Today is the day we will end the tyranny of leftovers. Your choices:

*Eat them. That’s what I did with the aji panca sauce I purchased for anticuchos, Peruvian grilled beef hearts. I am sure there’s some other application for this mild chili paste, but I don’t know what it is. For now I just made another recipe of the same stuff.
*Consolidate them. If you’re like me, you have several partly filled jars of sliced pepper rings you use on sandwiches. Put them together in one jar and pour off excess juice. There: you’ve just created a new condiment.
*Conceal them in other dishes. I am sick of the pickled sausage I picked up at Oscar’s Smokehouse for my kid, who showed no interest in it. That quart Mason jar is taking up major real estate on the refrigerator shelf. So I will take the last few sausages, chop them fine, and mix into burgers or meat loaf.
*Throw them in the garbage. After the virtuous steps above, you should feel fine if you simply discard items which are too unappealing to eat. As a bonus, some of them will probably be spoiled anyway.

See all that shelf space you’ve just liberated? Let’s go shopping and buy more stuff!

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Recipe: Thanksgiving Morning Omelette


Thanksgiving Morning Omelette. Not the best picture, but you get the idea.

What to do with the liver that comes in that bag of parts inside the turkey? It’s too strong tasting to use in stock or gravy, so most folks toss it away. Thanksgiving Morning Omelette is a much better solution. Inspired by a classic prep called Omelette Chasseur*, but using garnish bits left over from the stuffing. 1-2 omelettes.

2 eggs for 1 omelette, 4 eggs for 2 omelettes
1 turkey liver, cleaned to remove the connective tissue between the lobes
1 T chopped onion
1 T chopped celery
Salt and pepper to taste

Method: sauté the liver until lightly browned in a good amount of butter, along with the celery and onion. Chop the liver. Beat eggs and pour into a hot buttered pan and cook until just set; add 1/2 the chopped ingredients and fold for serving. You can use the rest of the chopped ingredients for garnish, or to make a second omelette.

*The original Omelette Chasseur includes chopped sautéed mushrooms, which is fine, and a Madeira flavored demi-glace, which is way too much trouble for Thanksgiving morning.

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The secret to foolproof turkey

Foolproof Turkey

When it’s done, your foolproof turkey will look like this. (Photo courtesy of, licensed under Creative Commons.)

The guests are coming, you’re onstage to host the holiday meal, and you’ve never cooked a turkey before. But never fear. Foolproof turkey is a lot easier than almost any other showpiece dish as long as you avoid the single most common mistake: overcooking the bird.

A too-done turkey will have well done dark meat but the breast will be dry as paper, and that’s the part everybody sees when you start carving. The secret is to protect the breast until the last hour of cooking time, so it cooks slower than the rest. I use a piece of cheesecloth, paper towel or clean dishrag which I’ve soaked in butter. Simply drape it over the breast and continue to moisten with pan juices as they develop. You can also make a tent of aluminum foil over the breast, or even use the soak rag and foil in combination.

There are a few things you’ll need for foolproof turkey which you may not have on hand if you don’t cook a lot. First, a meat thermometer. You can get an instant read digital or an old-fashioned chef’s pocket thermometer for under ten bucks and it will last you forever or until you misplace it. You should also get a baster but a long handled spoon will do in a pinch. And you’ll need a pan to fit the turkey. Take your biggest roast pan to the market when you buy your bird and if that isn’t big enough, invest in a disposable aluminum pan.

To brine or not to brine? Stuffing inside or outside the bird? I will refer you to my Thanksgiving clips post which has useful links answering all these questions. If this is your first effort, I recommend you skip the brine but consider putting stuffing inside the bird as well as making extra in a pan. The stuffing inside the bird will absorb the juices as it cooks for a moist, tender treat.

Now to the oven. We’ll assume you’ve got a thoroughly defrosted turkey* which is slightly chilled. (It’s more pleasant to handle if you take it out of the refrigerator a couple of hours before it goes in the oven.) Dry it inside and out with paper towels. Rub the outside with a stick of butter and salt and pepper the skin. Stuff loosely, as the stuffing expands while you cook. Take the giblets (if you have them) out of their bag and simmer with a couple of cups of water to make turkey stock that you can use for cooking vegetables and possibly gravy. (Your stock will be better if you put in some vegetables and seasonings, but today we’re keeping it simple.)

Notice I haven’t mentioned a cooking temperature. It actually doesn’t matter all that much since a turkey is very forgiving because of its size. My favorite recipe wants you to roast at 400 degrees. Joy of Cooking says 325 degrees. In my house we generally start at 400 then turn it down to 350 if we get concerned it’s cooking too fast. Allow 12-15 minutes per pound for a family size (over 15 lbs) turkey, a bit more if it is stuffed. You are going to determine doneness not by time but with your meat thermometer. It’s ready to take out when the thermometer stuck into the thigh (but not touching the bone) reads 165 degrees. A stuffed bird is done when the stuffing reads 165 degrees. So we’re talking 4-6 hours of cooking time.

Along the way, at about the two hour mark, the turkey will start to throw off pan juices. Ladle or baste these periodically onto the skin to keep it moist and help it cook to a nice rich brown. Take off the breast protector the last hour so it will brown to match the rest of the skin. When you’re done, remove the turkey to a rack with a pan underneath it to catch the juices. You can use those juices plus what is in the roasting pan to make some wonderful gravy, but since this is your first time you’re allowed to use store bought gravy. Let the bird sit for at least half an hour, and up to an hour or more, while you set the table and prepare side dishes.

And now you’re done…. How hard was that? You’ve got a bird that looks like the one in the photo, and you don’t have to let anybody know it was your first time.

*I’m guessing the second biggest turkey mistake is not allowing enough defrosting time for a frozen turkey, so you end up with an unevenly cooked bird or you give up and buy prepared turkey from Boston Market. You need to allow three days in the refrigerator to defrost a large turkey, or one day if you’re willing to do a diligent soak in the sink where you frequently change the water. Or you can simply cook the frozen turkey, following this method. I’m going to try it one of these days with a heavily discounted supermarket bird.

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Recipe: Fried Oyster Po’ Boys

Po Boy Sandwich

Fried Oyster Po’ Boys!

Thanksgiving is a good time to make fried oyster po’ boys because jarred oysters are often on sale. I experimented with both a buttermilk soak and an egg soak and found that buttermilk has more flavor but eggs make for a more adhesive batter, so the solution is to use them together. Makes 4-6 individual sandwiches.

4-6 hoagie rolls, hot dog rolls or po’ boy rolls

For the tartar sauce:
1 ½ c mayonnaise
½ c chopped celery
¼ c chopped onion
¼ c chopped dill pickle
2 T capers
½ t Tabasco sauce

For the oysters:
32-oz jar shucked oysters
2 eggs, beaten
½ c whole buttermilk
1 ½ c all purpose flour
½ c cornmeal
1 T paprika
2 t salt
½ t ground black pepper
Oil for deep frying

Method: Split the buns and toast them in a skillet or on a griddle. Warm the tops first on a dry surface, then remove from the heat, add butter and melt, then toast the insides till they are lightly browned.

Drain the oysters and soak a few minutes in mixed beaten eggs and buttermilk. Make the sauce while the oysters are soaking: combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix thoroughly.

Deep fry the oysters: heat 1 ½ inches corn or other oil to 375 degrees in a saucepan. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Dredge the oysters so they are coated on all sides and deep fry, 2 or 3 at a time, turning after 30 seconds and removing after a minute. They should brown quickly but will be tender inside.

Spread a generous amount of tartar sauce on each side of the roll. Add oysters, 4-6 per roll depending on how big they are. Serve open faced or closed.

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Life imitates art at Soup Man

Soup Man

Soup Man says, “no soup for you!” to shoppers in Market 32, Wilton NY

Does this strike anybody else as weird? A character modeled after Ali “Al” Yeganeh, the crotchety proprietor of the International Soup Kitchen in midtown Manhattan, was featured in the famous “Soup Nazi” episode of Seinfeld. In order to be served his delicious broth, customers must follow a strict set of rules about how to stand in line and order. Of course, George Costanza screws up and is told “no soup for you!”

Al Yeganeh subsequently put his name behind a franchise operation called “Soup Man” which dispenses gourmet soups from beneath a sign with his glowering countenance. I have stood outside the door of one of these establishments (near Wall Street, as I recall) and contemplated the menu but not entered because the prices were quite high, close to $10 for a bowl of soup.

Soup Man Box

My Soup Man soup, which I am not allowed to eat.

Soup Man is also available in shelf-stable tetra packs at a growing number of retail stores… which brings me to the weird part. About a year ago Soup Man contracted with Larry Thomas, the actor who played the Soup Nazi on the Seinfeld episode, to go on tour for them. He appeared at my local supermarket the other day, in his soup server’s costume, and was available to his picture taken with customers or simply with a box of soup, which he was happy to autograph.

So here we have an actor playing the part of the guy who is pictured on the Soup Man box, and he is selling soup by telling retail customers they can’t have any. Life imitates art.

The soup’s pretty good, by the way. I tasted the lobster bisque and brought home a 16 oz box. (I paid $3, much more reasonable than at the restaurant.) But I can’t eat it because it says “no soup for you” right across the front with Larry Thomas’ signature underneath.

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Toné Dehydrated Onions

Toné Dehydrated Onions

Tone Dehydrated Onions

At one time I made frequent car trips between the San Francisco Bay Area and southern Oregon. I’d always stop at the same Arco station for food. It offered those terrible pre-cooked wrapped cheeseburgers, but with an irresistible topping: dried onions that had been soaked and reconstituted. Somehow this process of reanimation added complexity beyond anything you can get in a fresh sliced raw onion, and I’ve been thinking about those onion burgers for years.

Now, I have a way to make my own: Toné Dehydrated Onions,  available in a giant jug that should last close to a lifetime. Spoon out some dried onions into a little bowl, thoroughly moisten with water (about 2x the volume of onions) then microwave 30 seconds and you’re good to go. These onions are also great added to soup, baked beans or meatloaf without reconstituting, which means they’ll pick up the flavor of the surrounding liquid.

Toné Dehydrated Onions, as well as their shelfmate Toné Chili Powder (which Snow’s uses in their ethereal baked beans) are available at Sam’s Club. If you don’t have a Sam’s near you, or you’re not a member and don’t care to join, you can get them mail order from Spice Place. Its not the sleekest website; look for search box and drop down list of manufactuerers at left and you’ll find what you need.

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