Category Archives: Cooking

Uncle Steve’s Arribiata Sauce

I have a soft spot for celebrity pasta sauces. First, I think jarred sauce is pretty generic so most any attempt to dress it up is likely to yield positive results. Second, I totally buy the notion of the pressured … Continue reading

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What’s cooking at CES 2015 in Las Vegas

This is the year of the “internet of things” at the Consumer Electronics Show, but in two days prowling the aisles I did not see many things for the adventurous cook. An exception is the Anova sous vide cooker shown … Continue reading

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What happened to the carrot and onions in Julia Child’s boeuf bourguinon?

I decided to make Julia Child’s boeuf bourguinon this weekend, following the recipe in my 1973 copy of Mastering the Art of French Cooking. She’s got a nice technique for working the flour into meat: brown the meat first, then … Continue reading

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How to do Thanksgiving right

This year we got super lazy and did not brine our turkey, did not lay in fresh cranberries, and most of all did not make elaborate social plans. Yet as the day dawns bright and snowy I have no doubt … Continue reading

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Baking Hamelman’s 80% rye “Affidavit Bread”

The other day I baked up a wonderful pullman loaf of 80% whole rye that’s perfect for serving with smoked salmon or some of the nice Brooklyn whitefish salad I had left over from a party last weekend. With a … Continue reading

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The cure for watery steak

I have been reading Steak by Mark Schatzker, in which the author searches the world for the world’s tastiest piece of beef. It is a quest I will admire, but not join, because I believe you should not have to … Continue reading

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What to do with tomatillos (Mexican green tomatoes)

Tomatillos, also known as Mexican green tomatoes, are actually a relative of the gooseberry which grows fruit covered with a similar papery husk. But they behave very much like tomatoes in recipes while adding a tartness all their own. Another … Continue reading

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Foods of the World: Middle Eastern Cooking

Some 40 years before Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem, Time-Life Books introduced American home cooks to the wonders of Middle Eastern cuisine with its Middle Eastern Cooking – Foods Of The World. Some of the books in the series dumbed down the flavors … Continue reading

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Five tips for handling bread dough using the stretch-and-fold method

Here are a few useful tactics and problem-solving tips I’ve discovered making lots and lots of loaves of bread by hand using the stretch-and-fold method. I haven’t seen these elsewhere so am publishing in the hopes they’re useful to you … Continue reading

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Men, fire and food: a visit with Bruce Frankel of Spitjack

Bruce Frankel was a chef with an idea. Tired of long hours and not great financial success at a Boston nouvelle cuisine (remember?) fine dining place in the 1980s, he decided to do something entrepreneurial. He looked at molecular gastronomy … Continue reading

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