Category Archives: Cooking

Baking Hamelman’s 80% rye “Affidavit Bread”

The other day I baked up a wonderful pullman loaf of 80% whole rye that’s perfect for serving with smoked salmon or some of the nice Brooklyn whitefish salad I had left over from a party last weekend. With a … Continue reading

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The cure for watery steak

I have been reading Steak by Mark Schatzker, in which the author searches the world for the world’s tastiest piece of beef. It is a quest I will admire, but not join, because I believe you should not have to … Continue reading

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What to do with tomatillos (Mexican green tomatoes)

Tomatillos, also known as Mexican green tomatoes, are actually a relative of the gooseberry which grows fruit covered with a similar papery husk. But they behave very much like tomatoes in recipes while adding a tartness all their own. Another … Continue reading

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Foods of the World: Middle Eastern Cooking

Some 40 years before Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem, Time-Life Books introduced American home cooks to the wonders of Middle Eastern cuisine with its Middle Eastern Cooking – Foods Of The World. Some of the books in the series dumbed down the flavors … Continue reading

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Five tips for handling bread dough using the stretch-and-fold method

Here are a few useful tactics and problem-solving tips I’ve discovered making lots and lots of loaves of bread by hand using the stretch-and-fold method. I haven’t seen these elsewhere so am publishing in the hopes they’re useful to you … Continue reading

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Men, fire and food: a visit with Bruce Frankel of Spitjack

Bruce Frankel was a chef with an idea. Tired of long hours and not great financial success at a Boston nouvelle cuisine (remember?) fine dining place in the 1980s, he decided to do something entrepreneurial. He looked at molecular gastronomy … Continue reading

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Why I love Crystal Hot Sauce

Do a web search for “Crystal vs Tabasco” and you’ll find lots of Louisiana stories about how one po-boy restaurant uses one, another the other as a matter of personal preference. Buy two bottles and try them side by side … Continue reading

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Red Boat Salt: just get some now

I have previously written about the nectar which is Red Boat Fish sauce and why, considering the modest premium compared to generic nuoc mam, there is no reason not to make it your default fish sauce. Now Sam Luu, the operations … Continue reading

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Thrill on the Grill

The other day I cooked up a nice grilled dinner that was inspired by my recent Two Guys and a Grill class at Market Bistro. I was further stimulated by the chemistry of warm early summer weather and being able … Continue reading

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Recipe: Green Chimichurri Steak Sauce

John Winnek shared this refreshing Argentine steak condiment in our Market Bistro grilling class. You can use some as a marinade, but be sure to save plenty to serve on the plate with the meat. It’s great for sopping up … Continue reading

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